The Vanishing Lapel

Jacket001

The Vanishing Lapel

Another project ticked of my list.  In a recent edition of Threads Magazine (April/May 2014) I saw a picture of a jacket that had me very intrigued.  The article accompanying the picture was titled ‘The Lapel Vanishes’ and gave quite detailed instructions for creating the pattern.  I pored over the instructions and diagrams for a long time and still couldn’t work out how the garment was constructed.  CHALLENGE!!!

The only way to work this out was to draft the pattern, as per instructions and make a calico toile.  My first attempt, using a basic jacket pattern, was not so good.  The neckline was too low, the angle of the lapel wrong and the vertical front seam was in the wrong spot.

Attempt No. 2 used a basic shirt pattern with a bust dart – much happier this time.  Although the bust dart added an extra ‘line’ at the front, the fit was much better and it was far more comfortable to wear.

Ready for the real thing! My fabric was purchased online from Tessuti’s – a gorgeous Italian 100% wool faille.  The colour was called Wasabi and, although it is quite different from what I saw on screen, I’m still very pleased (after all, it’s green!).

My jacket differs to the Threads version in that I choose to make it single-breasted and added set in pockets with welts.  The sleeves are one piece and 3/4 length.  It’s a boxy style jacket rather than fitted, and very comfortable.  Check out the gorgeous buttons purchased from Designer Fabrics on the Gold Coast AND the bound buttonholes!

 

 

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9 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Sharon
    May 17, 2014 @ 18:21:45

    Gorgeous jacket and those buttons are perfect. This jacket had me intrigued when I read it in Threads so glad you have made it up. Now to work out how you got those perfectly pointed tabs!

    Reply

  2. seamslikefun
    May 17, 2014 @ 18:35:41

    Aha! I’ll have to post instructions on the ‘perfect pointed tab’. Stay tuned.

    Reply

  3. thesimpleseamstress
    May 17, 2014 @ 22:20:32

    How absolutely beautiful! Your version is much prettier than the photo! Love the color.

    Reply

  4. Toni Stuart
    May 18, 2014 @ 23:25:57

    WOW what an amazing creation, cannot wait to see it in person in Adelaide…….you are going to bring it to brag and show it off, as you should do of course!!!!

    Reply

  5. CherryPix
    May 19, 2014 @ 08:08:58

    Ooh…very interesting to see this made up! I was intrigued by that article too…thanks for the tips on best pattern to use…and I agree with Sharon…those perfect placket points! How???

    Reply

  6. loribeilby
    May 19, 2014 @ 08:56:23

    Gorgeous!

    Reply

  7. Trackback: Perfect Points | Seams Like Fun
  8. corry anderson
    Aug 30, 2014 @ 20:18:46

    Louise,
    I puzzle and puzzled, made patterns ect but never cracked the code.
    Never saw how to do it.
    Looks lovely
    Today your outfit looked so good. Also your hairdo.Corry Anderson Ormiston group

    Reply

    • Seams Like Fun
      Aug 31, 2014 @ 08:39:55

      Thanks Corry, it was lovely to see you again today.
      I also puzzled over the picture in Threads and even while I was drafting the pattern it didn’t really make sense. It was only when I finally sewed together the calico toile that the light bulb went on.

      Reply

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