The Vanishing Lapel

Jacket001

The Vanishing Lapel

Another project ticked of my list.  In a recent edition of Threads Magazine (April/May 2014) I saw a picture of a jacket that had me very intrigued.  The article accompanying the picture was titled ‘The Lapel Vanishes’ and gave quite detailed instructions for creating the pattern.  I pored over the instructions and diagrams for a long time and still couldn’t work out how the garment was constructed.  CHALLENGE!!!

The only way to work this out was to draft the pattern, as per instructions and make a calico toile.  My first attempt, using a basic jacket pattern, was not so good.  The neckline was too low, the angle of the lapel wrong and the vertical front seam was in the wrong spot.

Attempt No. 2 used a basic shirt pattern with a bust dart – much happier this time.  Although the bust dart added an extra ‘line’ at the front, the fit was much better and it was far more comfortable to wear.

Ready for the real thing! My fabric was purchased online from Tessuti’s – a gorgeous Italian 100% wool faille.  The colour was called Wasabi and, although it is quite different from what I saw on screen, I’m still very pleased (after all, it’s green!).

My jacket differs to the Threads version in that I choose to make it single-breasted and added set in pockets with welts.  The sleeves are one piece and 3/4 length.  It’s a boxy style jacket rather than fitted, and very comfortable.  Check out the gorgeous buttons purchased from Designer Fabrics on the Gold Coast AND the bound buttonholes!

 

 

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